Grooming

When you first get your puppy it's very important that you get them used to the idea that grooming is a fact of life and is going to happen regularly. The sooner you start getting them used to being handled and groomed, the easier it's going to be for you, and/or your groomer in the long run. Early handling will also help with future vet visits, so even if you're not going to 'home-groom' the following techniques will be invaluable.

I personally think a grooming table is vital so (a) there's no escape and (b) they get used to the idea that table means grooming, which means stand still and it'll be over in no time with TREATS after. Never lose your temper and always use your "happy voice" even when you'd rather cry. However, when you first get your puppy any table will do, just put a towel or something similar down so they don't slip on the surface.

If I've said it once, I've said it a dozen times: the secret to long-term stress-free grooming is to put puppy up on a table from the first week they come home. This is just as important if you intend to use a groomer rather than DIY. If you do use a groomer, don't leave your puppy alone with them until you're sure they are kind and gentle even when puppy "plays up". One bad experience when they're young and grooming day is not the only casualty - visits to the vet will be just as traumatic.

First couple of times on the table for puppy, just do a soft brush (about $3 from K-Mart) and comb through - don't forget legs and belly; I also pick up each foot in turn, gently feel between their toes and fiddle with nails - this gets them used to having their feet handled which makes trimming hair and nails much easier in the long run. Ditto ears and mouth and under tail/around bum, vulva/willy - wear disposable gloves if you're squeamish. I would also incorporate opening puppy's mouth and checking teeth. I like to check my dogs' teeth weekly, but even if you don't want to do that, being desensitised to having mouth opened and teeth/gums checked will make life MUCH easier if down the track if for some reason you need to, such as vet check, cane toad mouth wash-out, giving tablets, checking colour of gums if puppy's looking off colour etc. etc. Always remember your "happy voice" and when it's finished for the day lift them down, make a big fuss and it's treat time.

If you start your puppy from week 1 and very gradually build-up your expectations - never forgetting your happy voice or getting angry or frustrated - you shouldn't run into any problems. If you take 2 steps forward and one step back, that's ok. All you're trying to achieve at this stage is your puppy being fine with being handled over all his/her body.

If you find you have a "wriggler" who absolutely will not keep still, then try one of the dog grooming hammock thingies pictured below whilst puppy is still small - you can do a price comparative search on Aliexpress but they're only about $16 anyway so I went for Aussie stock off of Ebay to get it quicker. Puppy may wriggle around at first but just talk nicely and calmly without trying to groom. Then when they are still: praise, treat, take them out and praise some more. Next day repeat, and the next and the next and so on until no more wriggling. Then it's time to start brushing with your $3 Kmart special. You're not trying to achieve much at this stage, just teaching basic grooming table manners. Every time they start to wriggle when you're brushing, just step back and let them figure out it's a waste of time as they're not going anywhere. When the wriggling stops, a bit more brushing. They only come out of the sling when they've been behaving, NEVER when they're wriggling about - all that will do is teach them that complaining makes it all stop.

ACDs are smart and will very quickly figure out that wriggling is useless. Muppet even tried vocal complaint, but even her (not very bright) Maltese brain got the message that wasn't going to work either. Don't worry, it doesn't hurt them - although obviously never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table, not even for a millisecond - that's a golden rule.

Muppet suffering the indignity of having her legs clipped,
something she absolutely will not tolerate unless "strung up"

As with all things, build up time slowly and they'll quickly get the idea that there's no escape and it ain't so bad anyway. If you do this, then by the time you (or your groomer) need to do a full groom they should be standing still when just clipped by their collar to the grooming arm on your table. The table I bought (pictured above - full rundown on the tables page) came with a front and rear grooming lead which are much thinner than a standard collar so easier to groom around. Clipping puppy to the grooming arm/s gives you two hands free rather than having to try and hold pup still with one hand and groom with the other (nightmare!). It was the only way I could get Indie to keep still as a baby and the only way I can get her to stand up as an adult as nowadays she's so relaxed about the whole thing she just flops over if not clipped up front and back. I know some people use a partner to hold their dog still, but then that person gets to be the "bad guy" rather than that nasty grooming arm. That person will also get in your way, so I prefer the arm.

As with everything, it's a case of "baby steps" so take it slow and steady as you don't want to frighten your puppy and put them off being groomed forever. Lots of treats when he/she is good and always be kind but firm. Then when puppy is comfortable being on the table for all that (don't forget your happy voice!), after the brush and comb-through start out by just snipping scissors near him/her without trying to cut - you can do this with any old scissors you have hanging around whilst you're waiting for your posh ones to arrive from overseas, as the sooner you start puppy the better IMO. Also you shouldn't EVER "air cut" with your posh scissors as it damages the surface (apparently).

When they stand still for scissor noise, give a treat and happy voice. EVERY step will take several sessions (or more) so don't be in a hurry - remember you're setting you and your fur-baby up for future happiness not trying to win speed prizes right off the bat. Gradually get scissors closer and closer to puppy's body, snipping so they get used to the noise. Make sure you do it over whole body - both sides, back, belly, head, face, behind ears, under jaw, feet/tail, between toes and around privates. When they're good with all that, you can cut without being worried. However, ALWAYS have a firm grip on face when clipping around eyes etc. Hold by the "beard" gently but FIRMLY, or across bridge of nose. Check the diagrams on Tegans website for the direction in which to cut around eyes so you don't risk damage if puppy moves.

Once the soft-brush is fully accepted it's probably time to get yourself a "proper" brush (details click here) although I still use the soft brush first before the comb as it gives you an idea of where any mats are located without potentially "yanking" with a comb.

My process is: K-mart brush, comb + mat removal, Groomsoft brush, comb, clip, comb, finishing scissors, Groomsoft brush, comb, cuddle and treat. At various stages amongst all of that I take a break from combing to clean ears, then I go back to the brush/comb thing for a while. Then a break to check teeth - back to brush/comb, then check/clip nails. Any order you like of course, it just breaks up the brush/comb thing.  I know it sounds like a lot but if you do this WEEKLY, it takes next to no time at all as mats don't have a chance to build up and get nasty. It also means you find any serious problems (like Molly's cracked tooth) sooner rather than later. If you leave grooming for too long it will be a major task which neither you or your dog will enjoy. This may come as a surprise (I've had Maltese for years so I already knew), but Low/no shedding does NOT mean low/no maintenance; in fact when an ACD puppy is changing coat, maintenance is extremely high if you want to avoid ending up with a mat-ball on legs.

If you're planning to use electric clippers yourself, then once puppy is used to the scissors, start out doing the same thing with clippers running (clipper details click here). At first away from their body so they get used to the sound. Then closer and closer until you're running them over their body upside down (so not actually cutting but they can feel the buzzing against their skin). Always remember your happy voice. I talk total gibberish to my lot when I'm grooming - the important thing is not the words (they don't understand them anyway) it's the tone - it lets them know you're calm and happy so there's nothing for them to worry about - and that they're very brave and very clever. Totally off-subject - I also "prattle on" to my puppies when training them to walk around town nicely - I'm not sure if it's the talking itself or the high-pitched happy voice that makes people stare at me as if I've totally lost my marbles. 

Once puppy is good with clipper buzzing noises and vibration, you can see what your clipping skills are like first time out. Again ... quiet and kind voice, but firm in what you expect.

DON'T HESITATE! Line yourself up and go for it, one straight line down centre of back from base of neck to tail (take a look at Mel's videos*) - puppy can tell if you're worried about your skills and that will make them worried. If you mess it up don't worry it'll grow back (promise!) and your trusty chunker and thinning scissors will cover a multitude of sins when you tidy up later - don't know what they are? Then you need to check out the Scissors Page by clicking here. When you get even a small success, big fuss, treat and it's over for the day - build up time and expectations slowly. NEVER let puppy "get away" with refusing to let you do something, you MUST be the boss, albeit a kind and gentle one with a soft and happy voice; but do stop before they're too tired so that you finish on a high note.

Picture below is clip direction as per Tegan's website - click on the piccy to go to Mel's grooming page where you will find extensive information on how to groom an ACD.

You'll notice that ACDs should have a FLAT top, not a cone shaped head - they are not poodles! and that ear length should blend in with muzzle, not hang miles below it ... again, they are not poodles.

Above Left: Direction of Clippers.     Above Right: between eyes needs a bit more of a trim IMO

Photo below left is courtesy of Ridgey Didge Australian Cobberdogs and shows how a Cobber-cut is supposed to look - with perfectly trimmed faces so you can see your ACDs beautiful eyes. Below right is my own beautiful Mollydog (Tegans Good Golly Miss Molly - retired Guardian and love of my life).

Diagram on the left (courtesy of Rutlands Manor) shows what is usually referred to as a "maintenance" or "hygiene" clip. Yes it keeps all the "bits" nice and clean; but it mostly serves to keep your dog cool without shaving all their hair off, and significantly reduces matting problems on legs etc.

On the right we have Miss Molly Modelling her tummy, which was clipped a week before photo was taken. I use a #5FC blade for all areas of a maintenance clip other than inside legs (for which I use a #19mm in winter and a 13mm in summer), as I find the #10 blade recommended by other groomers cuts a bit too short and causes skin irritation in my girls.

For the inside of all four legs I clip with a 19mm or 13mm blade; then using thinning scissors I thin out hair on the outside of all legs the way Mel (formerly) of Tegans recommends. When using thinning scissors or chunkers ALWAYS comb through afterwards to make sure you're not leaving behind fine hair to cause future matting.

As you can see from photo above and below left - you can't tell there's no hair on the inside legs, or that rest of leg hair is thinned-out (Molly was clipped a week before photos were taken). If you don't want to clip inner legs, it's still a good idea to clip into the armpits as this is major "matting" area.

In the photos of Mollydog on this page, she's very curly because we've been to the beach, she's been hosed down when we got home and then left to air dry. She needs to be brushed and combed out really, but I rather love the curly look.

When using clippers don't forget to check the back of the blade against your own skin from time to time to make sure it's not getting too hot - especially important on sensitive tummy areas. Always have some clipper spray handy as that cools blades down faster. I've used Andis Cool Care and Trimmercide  - details of both are on the Hygiene Page. I have three dogs, so I keep spare blades on hand to swap out so that I don't have to wait for them to cool down.

ALWAYS hold clippers with blade down when spraying so liquid runs AWAY from your motor not into it - or you won't have a motor for very long! Also brush hair out of blades regularly and if using a comb attachment (with a #10 blade), take it off and brush hair out of both it and the blade. The brush will come with your clippers if buying new, if you bought 2nd hand then a cheap toothbrush (kept only for that purpose) does a good job.

A seriously good video by Ridgey Didge Australian Cobberdogs showing how to clip ACDs feet can be seen HERE

I've put photos that may help with toenail clipping HERE

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When you've finished with your clippers/scissors for the day, spray them and let dry. Then oil them, wipe clean with a soft cloth (I use cheap microfibre ones you get from the Reject Shop in packs of 3 for $2) and put away in their case(s). Clipper oil should come with your clippers and will last AGES as you only use a teeny weeny bit. The best oil for your scissors is Camellia oil. As with everything, do an internet search for the cooling/disinfectant spray as prices vary enormously and a place that was cheapest this week could be the most expensive next week (don't forget to take postage costs into account when comparing as they can vary enormously).

Be gentle with yourself. Your first clips are likely to look a bit like a dog's breakfast (mine were horrendous - some might argue they still are ), but you WILL get better with practice. If you ever feel like giving up, just take a look around the ACD pages and see some of the truly HORRIBLE clips that have been done by professional groomers - who then had the nerve to ask for money! Remember, it's only hair and it will grow back 🙂

Check out the Tegans website - Mel (one of the original developers of the breed, who used to run Tegans before she retired in 2023) posted extensive information and videos on how ACDs should be clipped with photos of the finished article. Hopefully it's all still available at: * https://www.tegancobberdogs.com/cobberdog-grooming.html

A friend of mine took a video of Mel giving my Indie-Dog her first "official" haircut.
Sound quality is not the best as it was a lunch and the hubbies were gettin' restless
but if interested, you can see it HERE

Of course Mel clips the way an ACD "should" look but it's not always practical for one's lifestyle - for instance I keep mine clipped much shorter and without most of the feathering as we live on a farm and it just gathers crap; I also keep ears/beard trimmed quite short nowadays for same reason. So experiment with the look you like and that suits your situation - we don't "show" our ACDs so it really doesn't matter how they look as long as we're happy and the fur-kids are comfortable.

UPDATE:

After a couple of months of using my beloved Opal cordless clippers I discovered that I prefer to do a quick clip (over both of my Cobbergirls) every week or two rather than a major one once every month or so, as I used to do when "clipping" involved plugging stuff in and getting regularly tangled up in extension cords! This, along with a twice-weekly comb through for Indie-Dog and a weekly full groom for everyone, has resulted in matting in Miss Molly being pretty much a thing of the past; whilst reduced to almost nothing in much finer-coated Indie. It's also far less exhausting for me as it's all over and done with in less than half the time.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me on the following (which you'll have to cut and paste as I purposely haven't linked it to avoid spam): tracy@parkerspooches.com.au

last update 19/11/2024

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